"The X-II" 5-Wide Convertible Teardrop

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby bdosborn » Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:28 pm

1500# seems to be the tipping point for electric brakes in most states. I like the keg idea! Good luck with this build and keep the pics coming. :thumbsup:

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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:40 pm

I'll keep that 1500lb in mind Bruce! This one shouldn't be anywhere near that. If the girlfriend gets her way though, the next one (in another couple years) will be big enough to warrant a fancy axle with brakes.

Thanks! :thumbsup:
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:16 am

I was just thinking about the time-line for this build: planning on late-October to mid-April.

And as of now, I don't have a heated work area. Just out of curiosity, I looked up the minimum recommended environment temperatures for some of the items I'll be using. Maybe this post will be of use to others as well.

CPES (cold formula): 28°F (4 days cure time)
CPES (warm formula): 50°F (8 days cure time)
Kilz Original Oil-Based Primer: 35°F
Black Beauty Asphalt Fence Post Paint: 50°F
Rustoleum High Performance Protective Enamel: 32°F
Titebond III: 47°F
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane: ??
GE Silicon II Caulk: 40°F (caulk @ room temp)
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:21 pm

Deryk the Pirate wrote:Looks Sharp man! Cant wait to see some pics. So are you setting in a perm bunk bed in this 1?

deryk


Not sure how I missed your post before! I'm just doing a shelf inside again, but instead of having the removable bunk rails, the front 6" of the shelf is going to fold up. That way I can have a 2'-6" deep shelf if I need it, but when the front is folded up it will be the same depth as the shelf I have now (but a foot wider).
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:07 pm

Think I figured out my wiring diagram... anyone see any problems? The WFCO manual really had no information, so I think I got it right from reading posts on here.

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Last edited by absolutsnwbrdr on Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Kharn » Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:40 pm

I would put the 12v outlets on their own circuit, rather than sharing the light and fan circuit.

Are you using the SPDT switch on the battery to charge the trailer battery, or to use the TV battery to run the trailer?
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Postby Alan and Lianna » Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:27 pm

The drawing looks good and will work as drawn, but I would put a fuse or an auto-reset circuit breaker on the positive side of both both batteries, as close to the battery as possible, and if you are going to have two doors, wire in a couple of three way switches so you can activate the cabin lights light from either side. I would loose the SPDT switch, and connect both battery + together and add a relay on the vehicle side that would drop the connection when the vehicle is turned off.

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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:19 pm

Thanks guys! I guess I should have posted up some explanation with the diagram too, but I did use a couple of your suggestions.

I probably won't have a trailer battery when I first finish the teardrop, so thats why I added the connection to the tow vehicle battery. I did want to be prepared for when I do get one though, so the SPST switch near the batteries is just to select either the tow vehicle or the trailer battery. I don't need to charge while towing, but I can always change that later.

The interior lights are controlled by a wireless remote control, so I don't need to hard-wire switches on the inside. The remote control will toggle them on or off, but a switch on the interior will select either warm white LED lights, or dim accent lighting. On my teardrop now I just hang a pair of keys with remote key fobs next to each door, which has worked great.

So... I put the (2) 12V outlets on their own converter circuit, and then also fused them individually. The only thing I've used in my 12V outlet on my trailer now is just a cell phone charger, so I think they should be ok.

I also added the fuses at the batteries as you had suggested Alan, and then added a tongue box light to the fused distribution block.

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Postby terryjones1 » Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:32 pm

Why the SPST switch in the cable connected to Shore Power?

Also, why the GFCI?

The rest of the AC connections look fine.
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:47 pm

terryjones1 wrote:Why the SPST switch in the cable connected to Shore Power?

Also, why the GFCI?

The rest of the AC connections look fine.


My WFCO power center will be located in a compartment under the head of my bed, so I wanted to have a remote switch. I suppose I could just unplug it, but whats the fun in that? :lol:

I may end up just dropping that switch. :thumbsup:

The GFCI is for my own safety. For less than $20 I can't imagine why you wouldn't want one.
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Postby S. Heisley » Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:16 pm

Zach, I like the idea of double fuse protection, provided you can get to all of them to replace them. That will protect the converter and trailer a lot better than just depending on the fuses in the WFCO.

You probably have the WFCO issue all figured out; but, just in case, please be certain to allow enough space around the back and sides of its compartment so that if it sparks from behind, it won't start a fire. Also, there is a cooling fan with a vented cover on the front. Covering those vents with anything, even a blanket, will negate your warranty and could even start a fire. If one of the WFCO fuses blow, the sparks fly out the front. (...Don't ask....) :roll:
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:27 pm

S. Heisley wrote:Zach, I like the idea of double fuse protection, provided you can get to all of them to replace them. That will protect the converter and trailer a lot better than just depending on the fuses in the WFCO.

You probably have the WFCO issue all figured out; but, just in case, please be certain to allow enough space around the back and sides of its compartment so that if it sparks from behind, it won't start a fire. Also, there is a cooling fan with a vented cover on the front. Covering those vents with anything, even a blanket, will negate your warranty and could even start a fire. If one of the WFCO fuses blow, the sparks fly out the front. (...Don't ask....) :roll:

:oops:
Sharon thanks for your insight! It may save me from doing something stupid. :?

I did see that some of the WFCO have their fans venting to the front, but the 8725 vents to the top. With that said, I think my intended setup might be ok. My idea is to use the empty space underneath the head of my sleeping area as an electronics compartment. The WFCO8725 would be mounted with the front panel facing upwards, like I show below. The WFCO would be supported from underneath, not from the hinged compartment lid.

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So the front panel would be covered up with the mattress, but the fan vent would be facing forward in the compartment and would be unobstructed. I havent blown any fuses in my current trailer, so I decided that it would be find hiding the electronics compartment out of the way. If fuse blows, I'll just lift of that end of the mattress, and open the hinged compartment door. I will have this compartment vented to the outside so that there is some air circulation.

Am I going to die?! :cry:
Last edited by absolutsnwbrdr on Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby S. Heisley » Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:07 pm

That's interesting, Zach. The WFCO8725 looks like it has vent slots on the front. You'd think the 8725 would be similar to the 8735. I guess not.

The thing that got me was a 12 volt outlet. There is no real industry standard for those or the plug-ins; so, things plugged in aren't always a perfect fit. When my plug wouldn't come out, I wiggled it, without thinking, causing a fuse to blow. Since the outlet was close to the fuse, I got a good view of what happened. It was pretty exciting! In the future, if something doesn't want to pull out, I'll disconnect everything before I try to remove it. That's why I think your extra fuse connections are a great idea. Thanks to your idea, I may eventually add a couple in-line fuses to my 12V outlet runs.
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:30 pm

Yeah, I'm not sure why this big difference, but here are the two:

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As far as the 12v outlets, its just like a cigarette lighter outlet in a car. I don't have much that runs off of them, but they can be convenient. Cell phone charger is probably the main reason. I also have a 12v pump for an air mattress.

My teardrop now actually has a 12V outlet and a 5V USB outlet right next to each other. Havent used them much, but its nice to think that I can :)
Last edited by absolutsnwbrdr on Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby toypusher » Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:22 am

Just an opinion of my own here. I am planning another teardrop build and will not use a converter. Everything will run off the battery and I will us a battery tender for when there is shore power to keep the battery charged up. It will be less expensive too.
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