Ultralight Construction...

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Ultralight Construction...

Postby mikeschn » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:01 pm

Day 1

Built a table to build those durn walls on... Unlike the last table I built, which was a wimpy thang, this one will hold bags of sand, or 14 feet of water, or a vaccuum bag, what ever is the handiest, without collapsing. :banana:

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Who knows what the next day will bring...

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby weasel » Wed Mar 01, 2006 10:36 pm

Nice work Mike :thumbsup: :applause:
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Postby Miriam C. » Thu Mar 02, 2006 10:00 pm

That is nice. Mines prettier. I can't wait to see the ultralight put together.
does this mean you got kicked out of the kitchen. Was that you or someone else.
Get back to work! :hammer:

Hope you are having as much fun with this design as the rest of us.
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Postby Arne » Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:48 pm

Mike, I've been gone for about a month, traveling.....

Are you building an ultrlight?....

I have a very similar looking 1800# trailer still in my shed in the boxes.... and the plan is to do an ultrilight with very little frame.... will have a lot of steel left over.
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Postby mikeschn » Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:10 pm

Yes Arne, I am going to try to build an ultralight...

I say that because we all know, some days are good, and some days are bad... today was a bad day. :crying1:

Let me share a few pictures with you...

After I glued up those 1x4's I cut the template out of the 5.2mm luan... that's less than 1/4". Let me tell you... that luan is like a rubber band... it moves all over the place.... I figure, no problem, I'll clamp it down... Later on I find out that the 1 1/2" width isn't really enough to keep the router stable... but I'm getting ahead of myself... I set the template on top of the pine frame, and figured I'd make a practice cut...

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The inside cut went fine...
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then I tried an outside cut.... suddenly I noticed that the bit was cutting into the pattern.... :shocked: Image

Hey, that's not supposed to happen... So I look at the collar on the router... it either melted, or got chipped away... Needless to say I am not a happy camper...
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I either need a better router guide, or I have to change my method of construction to the one that Subtear is using...
http://www.teardrops.us/userfiles/33/te ... anean.html

Hmmmm :pipe: I think it's time to bounce this off one of our experts... Steve Frederick... Steve, your thoughts...

Mike...
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Postby madjack » Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:18 pm

...get a Porter-Cable router with the 2 piece, screw together bushing set...we just luv it at the shop.................. 8)
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Postby Ken A Hood » Sat Mar 04, 2006 6:30 pm

GUIDE SET
BASE PLATES

I have some of their products, and they all work well together. You can even make your own router table, to whatever size you need.
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Here is a link from Steve Frederick

Postby Guy » Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:18 pm

Dear Mike,

Here is the link from Steve Frederick posted in the "Router Masters" thread

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html

Those are the bearing he uses.
Regards,

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Postby Chip » Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:24 pm

Making a mental and visual note here,, stay from Roto Zips and routers,,,

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Postby mikeschn » Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:24 pm

Yep,

I think it's time to place that order...

Tomorrow though, I think I have to start a new side using the laminated strip method...

Mike...
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Postby asianflava » Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:30 pm

I like using ball bearing bits instead of guide bushings. Just my preference though. I'm sure one is better than the other, depending on the situation.
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Postby Steve Frederick » Sat Mar 04, 2006 7:58 pm

Two things..I use a top-bearing pattern bit when the pattern is on top..a bottom bearing bit otherwise.

For pattern work with a guide bushing..get a Porter-Cable-Type base and some brass screw-on bushings..
Image

I get my stuff fromMLCS
Also, For really critical cuts, coat the pattern edges with epoxy, paint, or even wax, to keep snags and bumps to a minimum.
I'd fix the pattern with some schmutz (epoxy/wood dust/silica) and carry on!
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Postby madjack » Sat Mar 04, 2006 8:11 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:Two things..I use a top-bearing pattern bit when the pattern is on top..a bottom bearing bit otherwise.

For pattern work with a guide bushing..get a Porter-Cable-Type base and some brass screw-on bushings..
Image

I get my stuff fromMLCS
Also, For really critical cuts, coat the pattern edges with epoxy, paint, or even wax, to keep snags and bumps to a minimum.
I'd fix the pattern with some schmutz (epoxy/wood dust/silica) and carry on!


...that is perzactly how we operate and the shop...gee great minds really do think and act alike :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Steve_Cox » Sat Mar 04, 2006 10:15 pm

mikeschn wrote:Yep,

I think it's time to place that order...

Tomorrow though, I think I have to start a new side using the laminated strip method...

Mike...


I like the laminated strip method too. After learning from Roly how to do the outside trim on my woody that way, I too decided it would be a great way to do a frame lay up, can't wait to try it out. On the trim job I used 7 layers of .200ths thick red oak with epoxy. Love it when people come up and ask "how did you bend that?"
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Postby mikeschn » Sun Mar 05, 2006 3:53 pm

Today is a better day... Went to HF, where they were having a big sale, and took my 10% off coupon... Got that portable bandsaw, and a bunch of clamps.

Got home and fit up the table with a bunch of dowel pieces...

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Then I started glueing up my strips... (which are 1/8" thick btw) The first two strips were a little tricky, but the third one went on really easy. I'm experimenting with titebond III, and it appears I can put on another strip every 30 minutes... The most important thing I learned today is, I didn't buy enough clamps... You need one on every dowel piece, and one inbetween...

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It's getting to be fun now!!!

Mike...
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