Getting luan to behave?

General Discussion about almost anything Teardrop or camping related

Postby cracker39 » Fri Apr 07, 2006 1:36 pm

Aw, come on Ira...tell them why you didn't buy the combo.

;) :twisted:
Dale

Sometimes I pretend to be normal. But, that gets boring...so I go back to being me.

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Postby Ira » Fri Apr 07, 2006 1:46 pm

It had nothing to do with your PM about the power consumption--I swear.

I didn't even check that out yet. Not saying you're wrong about that, but that wasn't the reason.

I sense another erotic PM happening between Dale and me.
Here we go again!
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Postby asianflava » Fri Apr 07, 2006 3:55 pm

Ira, You can get those ratchet straps at Wal Mart, look in the automotive section for cargo tie downs.

On my hatch, I used the polyurethane caulk to cinch down the end. Then I worked my way around with glue and clamps.
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Postby Mullet » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:26 pm

Instead of spending $10 on some ratcheting straps, spend $2 on 100' of 1/4 nylon. Cut off ten or fifteen feet or whatever you need, tie a loop in one end, wrap the rope around your project, putting the bight through the loop and tieing it off with a couple of half hitches. When you are done, you'll have some ropes that will come in useful at the campground--something to practice knots on, clotheslines, luggage straps, trash bag tiedowns, pet leash, tent/awning lines, lantern lines, firewood haulers, picnic table spread holder, chair repair straps, hobbles for the teenage son--the possibilities are unlimited.
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Postby Mitheral » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:38 pm

surveytech wrote:
Ira wrote:Actually Walter, since my stuff bends so easily anyway, I probably don't have to prebend it. Why not just glue it down and strap?

Also, what do you think--a job for Titebond, right? No sense in messing with poly stuff for this.


I used Titebond III on mine but I also used screws and staples. I bet either glue would work.


Titebond creeps and is water resistant not water proof. I'd go for the PU for fenders.
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Postby cracker39 » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:44 pm

Mitheral wrote:
Titebond creeps and is water resistant not water proof. I'd go for the PU for fenders.


When I built a boat years ago, I didn't know any better, so I used Elmer's wood glue and put on a FG resin covering and never had a problem. I'm using TBII, and as long as the glued wood is sealed and protected from water, I'm sure it will hold for fenders. The fender will get most of the water contact inside, and mine will be coated inside with poly varnish, then the same roof coating I used on the floor bottom.
Dale

Sometimes I pretend to be normal. But, that gets boring...so I go back to being me.

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Postby angib » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:47 pm

Boatbuilding method for this sort of job: fix thin ply down with a staple gun and then remove the staples when the glue is set. How? You can prise each staple out, but it'll probably mark the ply. Instead fire the staples through a piece of packing/banding strap (the unbreakable polypropylene stuff) - once the glue has set, yank (or hoick, or yark) on the strap and it'll pull the staples out in one go.

Ways to tell a teardropper #127 - he has a stock of packing strap cut off previous parcel deliveries.....

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Postby Mitheral » Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:50 pm

angib wrote:Boatbuilding method for this sort of job: fix thin ply down with a staple gun and then remove the staples when the glue is set. How? You can prise each staple out, but it'll probably mark the ply. Instead fire the staples through a piece of packing/banding strap (the unbreakable polypropylene stuff) - once the glue has set, yank (or hoick, or yark) on the strap and it'll pull the staples out in one go.


Heck of a good idea.
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Postby cracker39 » Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:19 pm

I just use my brad nailer, which countersinks about 1/16", and fill the holes and sand. Those brads add no appreciable weight and will help hold the skin in place. For areas of stress on the skin, I'll put two brads close together, at opposing angles to prevent the skin from pulling loose as easily.
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