Military patents polystyrene and bedliner packaging

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby TJinPgh » Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:28 pm

I've used the aerosol spray can stuff from Duplicolor for other projects. I used it to spray the plastics on my motorcycle and it did extremely well. 2-3 light coats and it wears like iron.

After reading a few of these threads and how the foam does with different resins and adhesives I figured I'd see how foam friendly it is. All I had to test it on was simple Styrofoam which didn't do well at all. It melted it completely.

Not familiar enough with these high density foam panels to know how they compare to such things. I would think that one would be best served priming it with something first, though?

As for cost and coverage, I used less than half a can to do 3 coats on the plastics on the bike, which included the front fender and the fairing that goes around the seat (the bike is a SV650 for reference sake) so it would seem that it goes pretty far.

A one gallon can is supposed to be enough to do a 6ft bed. So, my guess is that one would probably need maybe 2 gallons to do an 8 ft teardrop?

If, for some reason, it can't be made to work with the foam it could certainly be used as an alternative to metal on anything wood sided. So, if you're cladding the foam with luan it's effects on foam would be negated, wouldn't it?
-TJ
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Postby GPW » Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:19 am

This may work on the brown urethane foam ... :thinking:
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Postby allan1 » Wed Dec 28, 2011 6:35 pm

GPW wrote:This may work on the brown urethane foam ... :thinking:
Some where I have a small can of Plastidip that I've used on a few tools. I went to their website and they have several varieties they sell (including one to coat prosthetic's). I think it is rollerable & thatyou can spray with 'ordinary' equipment. I'll have to experiment - if I can find it in my tidy shop :roll: . I'm day dreaming of window mesh screen glued to foamie to pull it in tight and then skim over that. Any thoughts? link below

http://www.plastidip.com/foam_plastics.php
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Dec 28, 2011 6:50 pm

Not much has been said about the dovetailing part. I wonder if a foamie could be dovetailed, or even box jointed for that matter :QM :noyes:

Mike...
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Postby GPW » Thu Dec 29, 2011 6:53 am

Mike , I thought about that , using my buddys’ big CNC machine to cut all the parts with keys and dovetails ... snap together does sound interesting ... but don’t think it would add that much strength over the butt joined foam ... Maybe ???
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Dec 29, 2011 7:33 am

I have been following this thread and while I don't currently have a use for it, ya never know. I would think that a properly fused/welded butt joint would be stronger than a dove tail, however a dove tail would spread forces over a larger area. A fused joint will be stronger than the surrounding material.
One of the things I am excited about is the possibility of a sculpted structure, really you are only limited by your imagination in the shapes you can make.
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Postby GPW » Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:55 am

SC, I don’t think anybody’s delved into sculpting , as yet , but it does offer unlimited possibilities ... :thinking:

I still think something like this would be Cool ... :o Image
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:57 am

Did they use Gorilla Glue?

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Postby GPW » Thu Dec 29, 2011 6:20 pm

Moai Mucilage :lol:
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Postby allan1 » Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:46 am

mikeschn wrote:Not much has been said about the dovetailing part. I wonder if a foamie could be dovetailed, or even box jointed for that matter :QM :noyes:

Mike...
Talk about a messy job. Dove tails used to join sheets for right angles would look cool if you could see the work. Spline, scarf joint, tab and pocket (extra reinforcement to hold it in place by pushing skewers trough to lock it in - that would work with the dovetail too) but box joint would be strongest I think as it seems to get the most gluing surface happening and maybe the easiest ... not high tech but 1/4" ply template clamped each side having a more of a V shape rather than the U shape - be easier to cut with a bread knife. Are we talkng open or closed cell foam?
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:01 am

[quote]“Our team dove tailed the box’s joints to allow for hot and cold temperature transfer after spraying the Polystyrene container with the truck bed liner,â€
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Postby GPW » Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:21 am

With the foam being “non-structuralâ€
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Postby allan1 » Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:49 am

[quote="mikeschn"][quote]“Our team dove tailed the box’s joints to allow for hot and cold temperature transfer after spraying the Polystyrene container with the truck bed liner,â€
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Postby linuxmanxxx » Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:12 pm

Look at their different hard and flexible epoxy choices very interesting indeed just a hard to figure and navigate website and no pricing at all.

http://www.polygem.com/zoo/flexct.php
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Postby GPW » Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:14 pm

Steve, that’s always the problem huh ? .... the expense ... :o

The original Foamie concept was to do it in a THRIFTY manner , with commonly available materials ...
All in how far you want to take it , and how much you have to spend... :roll:
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