Commercial vs. Self-Thinned Epoxy Sealant

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Commercial vs. Self-Thinned Epoxy Sealant

Postby Loader » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:35 am

I have been researching the sealing the exterior wood surfaces, and I know it needs to be done to help prevent rot and deterioration.

Of course, we all know the commercial versions (CPES for example) of sealants are available, but could you make your own sealant by diluting epoxy with a thinner? Has anyone done this? Comments on results, Pros/Cons?

After sealed, I plan to paint the trailer with a marine grade epoxy based paint; like Pettit.

Thanks All
Earl & Kerry

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Re: Commercial vs. Self-Thinned Epoxy Sealant

Postby Steve_Cox » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:24 am

Loader wrote:I have been researching the sealing the exterior wood surfaces, and I know it needs to be done to help prevent rot and deterioration.

Of course, we all know the commercial versions (CPES for example) of sealants are available, but could you make your own sealant by diluting epoxy with a thinner? Has anyone done this? Comments on results, Pros/Cons?

After sealed, I plan to paint the trailer with a marine grade epoxy based paint; like Pettit.

Thanks All


Hey Earl,

I've been thinning epoxy for years with acetone, and I hear that some of the other fast solvents will work too. I have thinned with about a 10% addition of acetone to the mixed epoxy and hardener and have seen it penetrate as much as 16 inches in porous wood. I don't know how that compares to CPES or the Rot Doctor products.
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Postby Steve Frederick » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:29 am

I have used RAKA Products for years..Kayak projects and four T/D's so-far! They have a thin epoxy system that I use for all water-proofing jobs. It's thin enough to penetrate edge grain well, as well as face grain on plywood. The cost for a 1-1/2 gallon kit (you want #350 hardener, and #127 Resin) should cost about 98 bucks. This quantity will cover the entire project, then some! It works great for wetting 'glass also!
I just roll it on, tipp-off, then apply a finish. That's what I did on my last kayak project, for the hull.
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Postby Loader » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:28 pm

Thanks Steves! Appreciate the tips, and the link.

Steve F, those kayaks are beautiful!
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Postby madjack » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:31 pm

Steve...WOW :shock: those are eye popping Bee-u-t-ful............................... 8)
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Postby Steve Frederick » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:34 pm

Loader wrote:Thanks Steves! Appreciate the tips, and the link.

Steve F, those kayaks are beautiful!

Thank You Earl!, (and M/J) and you're welcome Earl!
I'm interested to know what you decide, and the results..Sure it will be great!
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Postby Loader » Mon Aug 21, 2006 1:04 pm

Steve Frederick wrote: I'm interested to know what you decide, and the results..Sure it will be great!
(Pics) :thumbsup:


I'll let you know. I'm gonna stop by a local West Marine, look at their system, as well as the Pettit Clear Sealant and Paint in the next day or two. Trying to be ready for the MadJack Roundup (aka The LCG).
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Postby roadtrippin » Mon Aug 21, 2006 2:07 pm

OMG those kayaks are gorgeous. Wife wants to build a couple of those as well. I said AFTER the teardrop is finished.
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Postby asianflava » Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:18 pm

There is a short blurb in the West Systems manual about thinning it with alchohol. It says that it will work but it compromises strength but commercially bought thin epoxy is the same thing.
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Postby Loader » Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:33 pm

asianflava wrote:There is a short blurb in the West Systems manual about thinning it with alchohol. It says that it will work but it compromises strength but commercially bought thin epoxy is the same thing.


Thanks, I'll give that a read.
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Postby Joanne » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:38 pm

Like Steve, I used Raka epoxy on my project. I don't know if there are significant differences in epoxies, but I don't think any of our projects exceed the capabilities of readily available epoxies. I found that for the same volume of product, Raka was less expensive. That said, the West System epoxy has a good reputation so you can't go wrong with it either.

I used the Interlux Brightside paint and was very happy with how it turned out. I used a thin foam roller then tipped the bubbles with a foam brush. The finish turned out great. Like everyone says, surface preparation is crucial to a good finish. If I would have spent more time in prep, the paint finish would have been near sprayed-on quality. I would have used the Pettit but the local West Marine didn't have the color I wanted so I used the Interlux instead. I don't think you can go wrong with either brand.

Joanne


Loader wrote:

I'll let you know. I'm gonna stop by a local West Marine, look at their system, as well as the Pettit Clear Sealant and Paint in the next day or two. Trying to be ready for the MadJack Roundup (aka The LCG).
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Postby tonyj » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:58 pm

Joanne is right--it is all in the surface prep. I did the hull on a fiberglass boat hull. Epoxy barrier coat and sand. Primer and sand. Three coats of Brightside, with finer sanding in between coats with the paint thinned 20-30 percent. It had an absolute mirror finish--with brush and rollers. Everyone thought it was sprayed. I really like Brightside paint. Holds up very well and is worth the effort and cost.

And I would agree that thinning 10% for a barrier coat is the way to go to get good penetration. For bonding, no thinning.
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Postby angib » Tue Aug 22, 2006 9:15 am

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I'll give an alternative view of solvents in epoxy. Good epoxy intended for wood coating/infusing/laminating is pretty thin but contains absolutely no solvents - you can open a can and leaving it sitting there for a few weeks if you doubt this.

If solvents are used in an epoxy, when the epoxy sets the solvents will evaporate, leaving behind voids that will attract moisture - if for example, you enclose the trailer with a waterproof cover, that actually keeps moisture in, you may even be able to get osmosis blisters occurring.

Without a cover, or some other way of keeping moisture in contact with the body, it's hard to create any serious problem. But if you're looking for the best results in the long term, avoid solvents.

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Postby doug hodder » Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:29 pm

Earl....in West Systems manual...page 22 Supplemental epoxy info....I guess it all boils down to....you can thin it, but there is a price to pay for it...Doug
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Postby Arne » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:01 am

Joanne, you used expoxy and interlux brightside. What did you use for a primer.?

I'm assuming you rolled on epoxy on the whole tear, not just the joints. Then sanded and primed.... anyway, I'm considering doing something similar.

CPES first, then primer, then interlux (or some quality marine paint)... I like the uniflex 255 I used, but can not keep it clean....

Any information is appreciated... thanks.
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