How much hatch Overlap?

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How much hatch Overlap?

Postby John6012 » Sat Sep 09, 2006 4:37 pm

I have built and skinned my hatch but have a problem. After I riveted the trim on the sides of the hatch, I find that the rivets hit the hatch edge.
Therein is another problem. I can't put a seal on the hatch because it'll have to adhere to the area where the rivets are. Maybe I was supposed to have even more overlap on the hatch than what I have. I think I have 3/4" overlap on each side as per this forum but the trim fit over the edges used nearly all the 3/4". What are your recommendations? Thanks
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Postby mikeschn » Sat Sep 09, 2006 4:43 pm

John,

Do you have a couple pictures to describe what you are talking about?

Rivets should not pose a problem. You can put weather stripping over rivets. And as long as you cut a relief in your sides for your weather stripping, everything should fit.

So pictures please, so we can help diagnose your situation.

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Postby 48Rob » Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:11 pm

John,

Did you use pop rivets?

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Postby John6012 » Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:21 pm

Yes, I used pop rivets, 1/2" grip. Are there other type rivets? I'm going to take some pix and see if I can upload them to this site.
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Postby 48Rob » Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:43 pm

John,

Pop rivets work well in places that have an open area behind them, to provide space for the rivet to expand, but are not a practical option for what you're trying to do.

Regular rivets protrude only slightly on the backside of the pieces being fastened, allowing the clearance you need, and also provide a reasonably flat surface for affixing the weatherstrip.

The teardrop parts stores sell rivets, and can also no doubt be found elsewhere (though it is nice to help support them).

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Postby John6012 » Sat Sep 09, 2006 7:14 pm

I guess that's my problem. Got the wrong rivets. I'll take it apart in the next couple of days and see if I don't have to build a new hatch. (3rd one).
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Postby John6012 » Sat Sep 09, 2006 7:38 pm

I've been giving this some thought and if I drill out the huge rivets I have in the hatch I can remove the trim, get some new trim, flat rivets and reinstall the trim and I won't have to make a new hatch. Whew. I've been on this trailer since last October-laid off this summer due to the heat.
Thanks for the insight.
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Postby asianflava » Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:32 pm

I hope you know how to "Buck Rivets"

You'll need a rivet gun (air hammer type) and a bucking bar. I've been told that an air hammer will not work because it has a short stroke compared to a rivet gun. Because of the short stroke, it will just work harden the rivet and not allow you to make the proper upset head.
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Postby 48Rob » Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:50 am

I was thinking soft aluminum rivets...

Image
They can be installed with a helper and an inexpensive tool (under $20.00) or you could easily make your own.
It is just a small round steel bar with a recess for the rivet head.
Key is to get the correct length.



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Postby John6012 » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:15 pm

I's me again, I have another similar question. The outer hatch rib should be about 1/4" from the wall. Now, the plywood shell on the hatch that will be skinned should be cut how far from the wall? If it extends to the side wall of the TD (Exterior of wall), it will be subject to moisture damage regardless if it has a weather seal or not. So, the real question is that one is supposed to let the aluminum rest/sit on the edge of the wall and afix the weather seal to that right? I hope I've worded this right. Thanks!
Maybe the plywood sheathing is to be cut more or less even with the outer rib?
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Postby 48Rob » Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:18 pm

Hi John,

Andrew posted a great line drawing of that area of the hatch...but I can't find it now...

The hatch skin should indeed extend past the last rib and cover the top of the side wall.

It is then covered with the aluminum trim, which strengthens and protects the edge of the skin.
It is exposed to some weather, but correctly sealing the wood will prevent damage.

If you cut the skin even with the last rib, there will be nothing to act as a "stop" except the aluminum trim.
It might work, but would be hard to seal.


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Postby John6012 » Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:24 pm

Thanks Rob, you answered my question perfectly. I corresponded with Grant of Lil Bear and he indicated that I am to either use the flat rivets for the trim on the edges so that the weather strip will fit snugly or put on the trim that that has a slot for the vinyl strip. So, I gues that's the way I'll go. I found a RV place that will sell me a 12 ft stick of trim for $12.00 per so I'd better get on down and pick up some befopre the prices go up (probably already has). Thanks again, John
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Postby angib » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:23 am

48Rob wrote:Andrew posted a great line drawing of that area of the hatch...but I can't find it now...

I don't remember doing one, so that may explain why you can't find it!

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Postby 48Rob » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:37 am

Andrew,

That would make sense...

My apologies to whoever did the drawing...

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