Interior Wood Treatment

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Interior Wood Treatment

Postby cablerunners » Tue Nov 07, 2006 8:47 pm

Hi All,

I'm planning on using pine for my galley and cabinets (much like Nightcap's Benroy).

I'd like to keep the wood natural looking.

So my question is what should I use to seal and protect the wood?

Thanks In Advance,
-phil
Last edited by cablerunners on Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Tripmaker » Tue Nov 07, 2006 8:51 pm

I've been using spar urathane and like the looks of it on birch.
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Postby Marck » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:27 pm

I would agree. Spar Urethane gives a good solid finish, it looks great and is a good protectorant. (is that even a word??):thinking:
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Postby NightCap » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:42 pm

I found it yellowed the pine a little but it is still nice and bright. I think it gives it a warm glow. I think you will like the pine in your galley and inside. Have fun and if you have any question I'll be glad to give any advice for what it is worth. Have fun bud.

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Postby WarPony » Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:54 pm

Yip, used the Spar Urethane inside and out on mine. Good stuff, man!!
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Postby Podunkfla » Tue Nov 07, 2006 10:42 pm

I generally use commercial products and spray my finishes. But, if you want a darn near foolproof finishing schedule with superb results using products you can get at any Big Box store... This is a pretty good way to go:

Sand all wood to 220 grit, then wipe on a coat (or two if you like) of Minwax Antique Oil. This "pops the grain" on most woods and adds depth to your final finish. It also acts as a sealer so your finish coats go on much smoother.
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Next day wipe on a coat (or two) of Minwax Wipe-on-Poly. You could use this product to build a beautiful finish, but it takes at least 6 coats to really build to a nice protective layer. Sand off any raised grain or nubbies between the earlier coats.
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You can use this to build a great finish much faster. Two or three coats brushed on undiluted or slightly thinned works well. The idea is to thin it enough you don't get any brush marks. It dries about three times faster than Helmsman Spar Varnish. You can also thin it with spirits 25 to 50% and make your own fast drying wipe-on varnish.
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You don't really need to use Helmsman Spar varnish for your interior finishing. It drys pretty slow, so there is more chance of dust, bugs etc. getting in your finish; and it can take days to apply multiple coats and you don't generally need the UV protection it offers inside.

There are many other ways to finish wood. This is just one of the simpler methods I know of that will give you a furniture grade result... and anyone can do it. Just some kindly advise from and 'ol guy that has inhaled a lot of fumes over the years. :)

If you really want to learn about finishing... Get Michael Dresner's or Bob Flexner's book: Amazon
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Postby Micro469 » Tue Nov 07, 2006 10:43 pm

WarPony wrote:Yip, used the Spar Urethane inside and out on mine. Good stuff, man!!


What about Exterior Varathane inside the galley?
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:00 pm

Podunkfla wrote:If you really want to learn about finishing... Get Michael Dresner's or Bob Flexner's book: Amazon

Michal Dresner is definitely an expert. :thumbsup: I have watched his presentations a few times at our woodturning club. He is from Puyallup, WA. :) Danny
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Postby Miriam C. » Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:44 pm

They make clear coat Minwax that is exterior and uv resistant. They also make a floor uratane that is uv resistant. Both are inexpensive.

To apply try using a floor finish applicator. Make sure you get the one for your finish (oil or water) and rinse the one for oil with mineral spirits. You can use a wall paper tray to hold the finish. It fits the short one. This works especially good overhead. I used floor finish on everything. Nice warm glow.
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Postby Tripmaker » Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:48 am

I forgot to mention. Before the spar urethane I used a sanding sealer. then 3 coats of the urethane sanding between each one. The sanding sealer seals the wood pretty good. I got it down so that I could put the sanding sealer on and the first coat of urethane about 2 hours later. Let it dry overnight, then another coat the next morning and the third the second night. I have a dehumidifier in my shop and that helps with the drying process. I'm sure some of the others have better looking finishes. It's all a matter of how much time you want to put into it. I didn't get too carried away as I figure with use it will get dings and scratches.
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Postby cablerunners » Thu Nov 09, 2006 9:57 am

Wow,

Thanks for all the great info!

I may try your Podunkfla :)

If I keep it a woodie outside definately will be Spar Urethane! I haven't ruled it out yet for the interior.

Thanks Again All,
-phil
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Postby Gerdo » Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:08 am

Typically a Spar Polyurethane is an exterior poly. I used it in my cabin and in my galley. An oil base poly will have an amber color which will deepen more over time, a water base poly will go on clear and stay clear.
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Postby Mary K » Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:21 pm

Okay, I have a question...

Do you have to use a stain first to seal the wood and then MW spar urethane? Or does the spar urethane also seal the wood?? :? :? :?

I have been doing some testing today on scrap with the spar urethane with and without the stain. I got mixed results, on one piece I did just the spar urethane and it got to dark for my liking, then on another piece it turned out perfect. I'm trying to keep it light, but I bought some light pecan stain just in case I have to use it to seal the wood. I'm using birch BTW.

Any help is appreciated!!!

MK

EDIT, OH and can you use spar urethane over tung oil? I love the way tung oil pops the grain out, but I dont know if the spar urethane will stick and stay on it???

Thanks again. Mk
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Postby Miriam C. » Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:42 pm

Mary K. Spar urathane can "amber" the color of the wood. You need to stain first. Make several samples with your stain and the spar. If you keep getting different colors try a prestain conditioner, then your stain.

The spar will still change the color. If you want the pecan color you might need to go to a clear finish. Minwax makes a reasonably good outdoor one.

I don't think I would use the oil and varnish together. :thinking:

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Postby Mary K » Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:04 pm

Thanks Aunit M, will do more testing in the morning. :thumbsup:

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