An inline fuse will work, but when it blows you need to replace the fuse. An RV supply or auto part store should carry the circuit breaker. I believe (I did this a year ago) I used a 30a circuit breaker and 8 gauge wire. There needs to be a circuit breaker (or fuse) near the battery in the trailer also.oside trailer wrote:thanks del -- will a 20A in-line fuse work for a circuit breaker?
TheBizMan wrote:I just bought a wiring setup from this site:
It contains wire, connectors, breakers and everthing for running a charge line.
oside trailer wrote:once upon a time, in a thread long, long ago, the topic of my Waeco CDF-40 was the center of much debate. the model was discontinued, but essentially the link below is the current equivalent:
this is the only thing i truly care about powering and i need it to last in desert conditions for as long as food takes to spoil.
lights in my trailer will long outlast the fridge, which shuts off automatically when there's insufficient amperage. the only thing that puts more of a drain on my battery is the 750w power inverter i'm running that powers some home electronics (what do you expect?)... but that's primarily during girlfriend camping.
the fridge is only good for about 2 days out in the desert heat on its own. i'm trying to toy with the settings but the slider controls are only so precise. as you might guess, there's plenty of sun (and frequently wind), but not an AC outlet in sight. my goal is to outlast ice (or dry ice) and a conventional cooler for as long as possible.
[sidebar: one technique that has been successful is to wait for the last 2 days of camping before turning the fridge on -- it's less convenient but a life-saver when all the ice has melted]
oside trailer wrote:....anything on the 110 side of the inverter is just a deal-breaker when it comes to battery life.
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