Aluminum skin help

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Aluminum skin help

Postby CarlS » Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:42 am

Does anyone know of a source for 5' aluminum sheeting in the Seattle area? I believe I've found my best source for 4' goods with Everett Steel, but I'd love to find 5' so I have no seams.
If I'm stuck with 4', what are my best options for the joints? Is 5052 grade going to be able to be buffed to a high luster? I'm planning on "floating" the skin...holding in place with side trim.
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Postby Ageless » Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:49 am

Have no source, but 5052 can be polished very easily; almost to mirror finish
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Postby Sonetpro » Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:51 am

http://www.saf.com/index.php

This is the best source I have found. They have sheet just about any size you need. They also have any extrusion you would need. I ordered all of my aluminum at the same time. If you order the trim pieces from them they ship in 16'-18' sections so no splices on long runs.
They charge by the pound no matter what you order. If you order over 100 lbs they ship it free. Great customer service and shipping was in days instead of weeks.
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Postby Dean_A » Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:32 pm

I got all my aluminum from a local place, but they had to order the 5' wide stuff from SAF and have it shipped.
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Sat Nov 14, 2009 1:41 pm

Alaska Copper and Steel on 6Th Ave in Seattle is where I get mine. I do a lap seam on the sides using 4' 5052 in the .032 thickness and the 5052 in the .050 thickness for my 5' wide roof. I use the VHB tape on a 4" lap seam just at the edge of the door bottom opening so that area doesn't have a lap joint. A lap seam is for my application so much easier than struggling with a sheet over 4' wide. The bottom layer is easily attached to the bottom edge. I make boxes to support the 4' wide sheet when I lay it on the VHB tape. I use contact cement on my sides so you'll need to apply molding as you go. :D Danny
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Try these guys

Postby eamarquardt » Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:51 pm

Try these guys. They may deliver to Seattle for free.

Oregon, USA
Copper and Brass Sales Division
Portland
5441 NE 148th Avenue
Suite 106
Portland, OR 97230
Sales: 800-926-2600
Sales Fax: 503-254-4181

They treated me very well. Also, the more you buy the cheaper the price. I paid less for 5 5X12 sheets than four would have cost because of the price break at 100#, so heads up.

Cheers, 73, K,

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Glueing skin

Postby CarlS » Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:10 pm

Hey Danny
Do you have to worry about the oil canning effect with glueing the sides? I have to admit, I've been fashioning a lot of my build from your gallery. Our building styles align. I have been in touch with Adam at Alaska Copper. I think I'm beating their prices though through Everett Steel(closer too). Thanks for the advice. I'm still going to check into some of these shipping options and see if I can go with 5' goods and still save some money.
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Re: Glueing skin

Postby halfdome, Danny » Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:49 pm

CarlS wrote:Hey Danny
Do you have to worry about the oil canning effect with glueing the sides? I have to admit, I've been fashioning a lot of my build from your gallery. Our building styles align. I have been in touch with Adam at Alaska Copper. I think I'm beating their prices though through Everett Steel(closer too). Thanks for the advice. I'm still going to check into some of these shipping options and see if I can go with 5' goods and still save some money.
Carl

Carl, as a Cabinetmaker you well know that to get the correct bond you need to have a minimum coverage of 80% and 100% on the edges.
I do a 100% coverage all over & have never had any oil canning or anything other problems, even in the hot California sun.
Ed Ester of Burien has used water borne contact on his 40+ teardrop builds.
I see them all the time at gatherings, no problems that I could see.
I use that nasty carpet glue for the roof.:D Danny
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Postby CarlS » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:09 pm

What do you recomend for sealant on the laps?
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:14 pm

CarlS wrote:What do you recomend for sealant on the laps?
Carl

Carl, The VHB tape is applied at the extreme edge of the outer lap like a shingle.
The VHB tape is like a weld, it's going nowhere.
Doesn't need a sealant.
I also tape the top edge of the piece being lapped just for giggles. :D Danny
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Gauge of aluminum

Postby CarlS » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:07 pm

Danny
I was by Everett Steel today to check out the sheets of aluminum before committing. I was surprised at the feel of the .032 gauge. I'm thinking it would be appropriate for everything! Fact is, the .040 seemed a little heavy for working around my curves(tightest being 12" radius at the beginning). With a backing of 12" centers on my framing and two layers(glued) of 1/8" luan, I can't see where the .040 would be necessary. I would appreciate your input.
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Re: Gauge of aluminum

Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:57 pm

CarlS wrote:Danny
I was by Everett Steel today to check out the sheets of aluminum before committing. I was surprised at the feel of the .032 gauge. I'm thinking it would be appropriate for everything! Fact is, the .040 seemed a little heavy for working around my curves(tightest being 12" radius at the beginning). With a backing of 12" centers on my framing and two layers(glued) of 1/8" luan, I can't see where the .040 would be necessary. I would appreciate your input.
Carl

Carl, from what I've read on this forum the .032 is the accepted standard thickness for building an aluminum clad teardrop.
Some may go thicker to obtain greater widths when it's not available in .032.
My first teardrop was .040 everywhere, #2 & #3 .032 on the sides and .050 on the roof.
It is possible to bend .050 on a 6" radius as my roll pans are that.
I do peen the ends over a 90 deg part of the under side and place several screws to secure it.
If you can use .032 on the whole teardrop, that would be the best choice in my opinion. :D Danny
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Postby CarlS » Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:24 am

Thanks! I believe I'll try to figure out a way to bend a short 90 at the beginning....another great idea.
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:34 pm

CarlS wrote:Thanks! I believe I'll try to figure out a way to bend a short 90 at the beginning....another great idea.
Carl

Thanks Carl
I'd let it hang and do it last after the roof aluminum is properly positioned.
It has a tendency to run off.
I mount the tires on the teardrop and use precisely cut to length cripple blocking to facilitate my efforts in bending the aluminum on the radius.
The suspension really helps while I position the blocking at an angle and then to 90 degrees using a dead blow.
Use a sacrificial piece to protect the aluminum. :D Danny
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Postby cokebottle10 » Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:33 am

You may want to find a place that repairs semi trailers. They have rolled .040 that is 103 inches wide any length you want. It is used to repair the roof of semi trailers. Most places I checked here in the southeast would sell it by the foot. Cost between $9 to $15 a foot.

Thanks,
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