OK Andrew, you got me thinkin!

[rlphoto]

The new and improved rear entry Walden!

I did away with the pop up top in the first design. There is enough headroom to easily sit on the edge of the bed to get dressed or cook on top on top of the slide out drawers comfortably in bad weather or in the morning if you are not dressed yet. This is the problem I have with the teardrop design. You have to get out of the trailer to do much of anything other than sleep or read.

The drawers slide completely under the bed out of sight to fully open the floor area in the rear. This also serves to put all the weight over the axel during travel. The drawers could have covers that serve as counter tops. The drawers could pull 3 ft past the edge of the trailer and still have 6 in under the bed to keep them from tipping.

I figured that I could mount an household AC unit in the end of a drawer that would line up with a small hatch in the rear door. And just slide it out when I want to use it. I am also investigating a 12" high cooler that would fit in a drawer.

Another Thing I am going to do is make a quick awning cover for the rear opening that would fit on top of the open rear doors. This would provide a quick private covered area for shower or toilet or cooking in bad weather.

Another thing,with the angled roof, the rain will always drain away from back doors.

Going to start sawing today!

Randy

[angib]

That looks good and I like your mock-up - there's nothing like testing an idea at full size to see if it works!

One thought is why are you limiting the front height to 3'-8"? With a 12" high bed base and a 4" mattress, you're down to 2'-8" headroom at the front of the bed, which is not enough to sit up. I appreciate there is enough headroom at the back of the bed, but you have to get there.

Making the front, say, 4'-0" or 4'-2" high would give headroom, add negligible weight and, I think, make the roof slope more attractive.
Of course, if you really have started sawing already, I haven't said a word...

Andrew

[rlphoto]

That looks good and I like your mock-up - there's nothing like testing an idea at full size to see if it works!

One thought is why are you limiting the front height to 3'-8"? With a 12" high bed base and a 4" mattress, you're down to 2'-8" headroom at the front of the bed, which is not enough to sit up. I appreciate there is enough headroom at the back of the bed, but you have to get there.

Making the front, say, 4'-0" or 4'-2" high would give headroom, add negligible weight and, I think, make the roof slope more attractive.
Of course, if you really have started sawing already, I haven't said a word...

Andrew

I was thinking about wind resistance. Cars are only 4ft 6in high overall. I dont have a lot of experience with wind resistance, so I was guessing that lower is better. I will rethink that part when I layout the sides and sit them up there. Thanks!

also, What is your opinion on what I should seal the exterior plywood edges with during assembly?

I may use epoxy paint or a good oil base house paint on the exterior.

[angib]

I was thinking about wind resistance. Cars are only 4ft 6in high overall. I dont have a lot of experience with wind resistance, so I was guessing that lower is better.

Nope, a low front is not a great benefit - a level roof (after the short front slope) is probably the same drag.

also, What is your opinion on what I should seal the exterior plywood edges with during assembly?

As I used to work in a boatbuilding firm using epoxy, it's hard to get me to say anything except epoxy.... It is great stuff.

With end grains, the important thing is to recognise that whatever you put on it will wick up the grain, so you need to supply lots of whatever you're applying - almost any product will need to be applied two or three times per coat (yes, painted on three times, each one straight after the other) as it's wicked into the grain.

Andrew

[Arne]

We sleep with heads to back and find the only thing hard to do is sit up to read, but I think that might be enough as mentioned.

Also, don't see the need for double doors, or are you carrying something inside? Double doors do create a weakness there.

[rlphoto]

Andrew.... Increased the vertical wall height to 4 ft. This will give me close 3 ft to sit up and read. This will also give me 1 ft of flat vertical wall above the car height. Probably not a problem. I still want to keep 1/2 in to 1 ft slope on the roof for water runoff.

I bought gorilla glue to seal the exterior edges and the few exterior butt joints. Should be fine under epoxy paint?


Arnereil.... The doors have to be there for outside cooking. The interior bulkhead shoud take care of any structural problems. I also want to us it as a utility trailer now and then.


Thanks guys!

Randy

[davidbyrum]

Hi Randy, very creative design! Everytime I think I have decided on my design to begin construction in August, I see another cool design that makes me pause and think. Just want to get this straight, the access to the Walden is through the 2 rear doors only and there are no side doors, is that correct? The drawer idea is also a great one which could certainly help with weight distribution ( I could see moving the drawers in or out a little before traveling to keep the tongue weight exactly what you wanted).

Keep us posted on your design developments, I still have time to change my design!

Thanks, David

[rlphoto]

Hi Randy, very creative design! Everytime I think I have decided on my design to begin construction in August, I see another cool design that makes me pause and think. Just want to get this straight, the access to the Walden is through the 2 rear doors only and there are no side doors, is that correct? The drawer idea is also a great one which could certainly help with weight distribution ( I could see moving the drawers in or out a little before traveling to keep the tongue weight exactly what you wanted).

Keep us posted on your design developments, I still have time to change my design!

Thanks, David

Yes, the access is through the back. I originally tried a side entrance with a 2 way galley in the rear, but this is simpler with less work, weight and more versatility. This can be built on a stock 5x8 or 4x8 HF trailer with only lenthening the tougue a foot of so. This gives me a good reason to make a one foot piece of tougue detachable so I can take it with me when I leave the campsite. Makes the trailer harder to steal with no tongue.

Cool idea on the adjustable weight distribution!

Randy

[davidbyrum]

Hey Randy, just one more question, are you planning on building your design on a 4x8 or 5x8 chassis? I've already purchased the HF 4x8 trailer so I was wondering which you were aiming for and if the 4x8 was ok.

Thanks, David

[Laredo]

Hey Randy ...
take a look at Mike's original Weekender if you're really worried about wind resistance. He put a good front slope on both the top and lower forewalls.

Other than that ... I really like your ideas a lot here.

Mike,
I still think I want to build that Long Weekender, only 5' wide ... what about a half-ton pickup-bed trailer (long wide '93 Dakota, if the front frame is as bent as I think it was in the wreck) as a foundation?

[Arne]

David, I used the h/f trailer. After widening it via welding in angle iron, I was talking to my welder brother yesterday, and we agree that since the floor is lightly loade, the widening could have be done much easier an much more cheaply ($$) using just 2x3's from side rail to side rail and bolting it with carriage bolts... could have saved a bit of time as well.....

So, if it were me, I'd cut that sucker down the middle and widen away.... Keep in mind you have to plan for how to work out the trailer tongue so it is strong enough......

[rlphoto]

Hey Randy, just one more question, are you planning on building your design on a 4x8 or 5x8 chassis? I've already purchased the HF 4x8 trailer so I was wondering which you were aiming for and if the 4x8 was ok.

Thanks, David

I dont see why 4 ft wouldnt work for a 1 1/2 person camper. Not wide enough for me though. This is what I did.

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=3883

[angib]

I could see moving the drawers in or out a little before traveling to keep the tongue weight exactly what you wanted.

And I could see the drawers moving themselves in or out under acceleration and braking to make the tongue weight exactly what you don't want....
Memo to Randy - make sure there is a secure way to lock the drawers in position!

Andrew

[rlphoto]

I could see moving the drawers in or out a little before traveling to keep the tongue weight exactly what you wanted.

And I could see the drawers moving themselves in or out under acceleration and braking to make the tongue weight exactly what you don't want....
Memo to Randy - make sure there is a secure way to lock the drawers in position!

Andrew

Been thinking about that.

Since I might want to haul something one day, I am going to install a few low profile heavy duty eye bolts going down into the frame steel in the corners running the length of the camper. After the drawers are adjusted for weight distribution, just throw a ratchet strap over the drawers just like any old cargo.

Randy

[GeorgeT]

I was thinking about wind resistance. Cars are only 4ft 6in high overall. I dont have a lot of experience with wind resistance, so I was guessing that lower is better.

Nope, a low front is not a great benefit - a level roof (after the short front slope) is probably the same drag.

also, What is your opinion on what I should seal the exterior plywood edges with during assembly?

As I used to work in a boatbuilding firm using epoxy, it's hard to get me to say anything except epoxy.... It is great stuff.

With end grains, the important thing is to recognise that whatever you put on it will wick up the grain, so you need to supply lots of whatever you're applying - almost any product will need to be applied two or three times per coat (yes, painted on three times, each one straight after the other) as it's wicked into the grain.

Andrew

Wind Resistance. Didn't know much about it either. Was able to find this little site that was informative. Check out the section on DC (Drag Coefficent) It does mention the "perfect" aerodynamic shape. "The Teardrop"
http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/dtipsaerodynamics.html#CD