sealing roof/wall joint

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sealing roof/wall joint

Postby tk » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:53 pm

Have done a lot of browsing here, there, everywhere but haven't come accross how to seal the roof/wall joint. I'm familiar with a couple techniques but none that look like they'd work for the rounded shape of the typical tear. Enlighten me.

Thanks,
Tom
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Postby Bandit » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:08 pm

I plan to use caulking or silicon to fill the gap/space between the joints. Then I will cap the joint with angled aluminum.
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Re: sealing roof/wall joint

Postby PaulC » Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:57 pm

tk wrote:Have done a lot of browsing here, there, everywhere but haven't come accross how to seal the roof/wall joint. I'm familiar with a couple techniques but none that look like they'd work for the rounded shape of the typical tear. Enlighten me.

Thanks,
Tom


Tom, Have a look at Mike's Generic Benroy plans or grab a copy of Steve Fredericks CDRom on how to build. The tricks and ways in both of these are invaluable. JMHO
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:24 am

I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.

I didn't really take a good picture of it, but if you look close at this one, you can see the joints filled and sanded. (The joints are on the side, not on the top!)

Image

The epoxy filler I used is here..
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/fillit.html

Also check out my skinning page here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

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Postby TomS » Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:01 pm

mikeschn wrote:I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.


I used the same technique to seal mine.

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Postby Steve_Cox » Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:27 pm

I too used thickened epoxy to fill gaps and join edges on the top, walls and floor. I used wood flour from my sanders dust catcher as a filler, It makes really strong joints. The 1/4 oak plywood on the top of my TD is epoxied in place. I used no screws or nails. 1/4 oak on the sides is the same, epoxied and clamped in place no nails or screws. Inside walls are attached with construction adhesive and 18 ga finish nails. Just the way I did it. Haven't run down the road at 80 MPH yet to test it. :lol:
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Postby Ira » Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:03 am

mikeschn wrote:I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.

I didn't really take a good picture of it, but if you look close at this one, you can see the joints filled and sanded. (The joints are on the side, not on the top!)

Image

The epoxy filler I used is here..
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/fillit.html

Also check out my skinning page here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

Mike...


Forget the filler:

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Postby larryl » Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:10 am

Tom:

Not certain how you are going to finish the outside. I used flashing tape on all edges where roof and sides, sides and floor meet. Flashing tape is very sticky and strong pvc tape available at most lumber yards. Comes in 50' roll, if I remember correctly.

This will only work if you are cladding in aluminum or Filon etc. I used aluminum edging over top the cladding.

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Postby tk » Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:19 pm

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I didn't frame my question well enough. I was really more interested in the cosmetic nature of the joint. Bandit mentioned the aluminum angle--that's more what I was after. However, I don't see how you bend the angle to follow the curve of the roof/wall joint without putting a kink in it. I'm a wood guy not metal if you hadn't guessed.

Thanks again,

Tom
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Postby madjack » Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:48 pm

tk wrote:Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I didn't frame my question well enough. I was really more interested in the cosmetic nature of the joint. Bandit mentioned the aluminum angle--that's more what I was after. However, I don't see how you bend the angle to follow the curve of the roof/wall joint without putting a kink in it. I'm a wood guy not metal if you hadn't guessed.

Thanks again,

Tom


tk...annealing is the answer to bending your AL without kinking...either that orf "dead soft" trim from one of the TD parts specialty shops...here is a thread on annealing
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=3396
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