Battery fuse? I'm con-fused.

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Battery fuse? I'm con-fused.

Postby John T3 » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:12 pm

Okay, I'm not Mr. Auto Electric, so I really appreciate all the great schematics. I don't know understand what and where to get the breaker or fuse that goes in line between the battery and the fuse box. It looks like critical safety equipment to me. Some help, please?
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Postby Spadinator » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:27 pm

I just went to Autozone and bought an inline fuse. They had 20 amp and 30 amp set ups.
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Postby Arne » Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:46 pm

Marine & RV places have fuse blocks.. you run one hot wire to the block, and tap off 3 or more separate lines.

so a search on 'fuse block rv', or head to napa and ask them to show you one. You probably still want a 30 amp inline from your battery to the block. The closer to the bat the main fuse is, the better.

So, the main wire feeds the fuse block, which has several wires going to different items, like fan, lights, etc.... Actually, there are pics here showing the set up, I just don't know where they are...
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Postby asianflava » Thu Mar 30, 2006 4:35 pm

You can get high current fuses and fuse holders at a car stereo store (including Best Buy and Circuit City). They are used for big amplifiers, they will work for your application.
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Postby Loader » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:06 pm

I ordered mine from WAYTEK WIRE, here's a pic:

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I didn't install the 30amp fuse between the battery and the block, do I need to do that? I thought the fuse block would take care of those type issues. :thinking:
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Postby SteveH » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:12 pm

I used an AutoZone 40 amp braker instead of a fuse. Works the same way, just will trip and not have to be replaced.

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Postby Loader » Thu Mar 30, 2006 5:20 pm

SteveH wrote:I used an AutoZone 40 amp braker instead of a fuse. Works the same way, just will trip and not have to be replaced.


Now a circuit breaker, good idea, and it appears to be a nice simple install, I can do that in mine easy. So, you just reset it when it trips. Nice. Autozone here I come. Thanks Steve.

Still not sure I really need, it, but what the heck, better safe than sorry. Especially since it appears so easy to install.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:34 pm

Earl You need it!!!! :thumbsup: Fuse blocks are notorious for shorting out or something falling on them and making a short. It’s like the main breaker in your houses electrical box! It’s the last chance before fire in the hole.
Most of that type of breaker will reset it’s self when the short goes a way. But some have a button you push. Ether way install one. A master cutoff switch is also a good idea when traveling so some thing doesn’t turn on and drain the battery. If you are charging the battery from the car it’s a must to disconnect the any possible load so the battery will charge.
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Postby asianflava » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:37 pm

You can get those circuit breakers at the stereo store too. At least our store used to carry them. They may have fallen out of favor because they are not flashy enough, not many places to gold plate.

I have one right off the battery in my truck. It goes on to feed the secondary fuse/distibution block which splits the power between the amps, etc. Pretty much the same setup in my trailer (DC wise)
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Postby Arne » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:47 pm

Yes, it is a good idea to have a main fuse (or breaker) as close to the battery as you can. Usually, that would be a 30 amp.... and the fuses in the block would be smaller.

It is probably not quite as important in a tear (though a fire could be deadly), but on a car surrounded by metal, it is critical, as wire insulation could fail and cause a short quite easily.

Btw. nice pictures above, make it very clear how to set it up... also look in this thread, about half way down, shows Mike's set up with closeup pics.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=1317&start=0
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Thanks, but I'm still stuck.

Postby John T3 » Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:49 pm

It's been a few weeks - got busy, but I'm back on the project.
Am I laboring under a basic misconception of battery wiring? I went to AutoZone looking for an in-line 30 or 40 Amp fuse that could connect to a battery cable. What I found was an in line fuse on a 12 gauge wire. All along I have assumed that I needed about a 6 to 4 gauge battery cable coming off the positive lead of the battery and runnning to the fuse block, with a in-line fuse. So do I simply hook up a 12 gauge wire directly to the battery? Is that safe??? :thinking:
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Postby 48Rob » Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:20 am

Yes.

The wire running from your battery, to the fuse/breaker panel does not need to be a huge cable.
It should be fairly close though, within a couple feet.

12 gauge is good for 20 Amps, 10 gauge for 30, 8 gauge for 40.


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Postby toypusher » Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:17 am

Check the Generic Build and go to the electrical section. And the how to insall a battery section. It even has pics of what the breaker should look like.
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Postby SteveH » Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:18 am

Not that it makes any difference, but I used 10 from the battery to the distribution/fuse panel, and 12 after that. By the way, the largest wire used in most cars, with the exception of the battery cables for starting, is 10 guage.
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Postby cracker39 » Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:25 pm

Just when I think everything is sorted out for my electric, another question pops up. My converter (8700 Series WFCO Electronic Converter/Charger) has a 30 amp main fuse and my battery cable run to the converter will be about 6 feet. Do I really need another fuse between the battery and the converter?
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