Bolting the floor frame down

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Bolting the floor frame down

Postby rampage » Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:14 pm

Should I use grade 5 bolts to bolt my floor down to the trailer, or would simple SS bolts and nuts be ok? I cant find any mention of it anywhere to use grade 5, but I want it done right. Thanks
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floor bolts

Postby oklahomajewel » Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:29 pm

The Kuffel Creek plans I have don't differentiate. Just says 3/8" x 2 1/2" Carriage Bolts. I did countersink them, used a little silicone on them and lock washers and tight nuts . I might smudge at little silicone on the ends when finished.
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Postby Bandit » Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:18 pm

This was also a concern that I had. When I bolt my floor down and get the side walls installed and eventually the hardwood flooring, I will never be able to access these bolts again. I went with 2" SS bolts and nyloc nuts. I've got 12 bolts holding the floor down, so it pretty impossible to shear all these bolts. I am more concerned with long term corrosion (rust).
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:35 pm

I used 24 elevator bolts to hold down my floor with nylock bolts and sprayed a little rust-oleum on the parts that are exposed to the elements. No primer needed. I'm sure they will out live me. :D Danny
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Postby Chris C » Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:51 pm

Yeah, Danny, I'm at that point too...............most anything I build will outlast me! :lol:
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Postby Classic Finn » Wed Apr 05, 2006 2:59 pm

Danny and Chris

I have never heard of Elevator Bolts, can I ask - what exactly are they?
Now ya got me stuck on my English.... :lol: :lol:

And also I will be to the same topic not too long from now.. Is your floor
width and length flush with the edges of your trailer frame or is it cut to
extend out a little - few inches or even an inch?? lengthwise and widthwise?

since our trailer frame has been professionally built and "Galvanized" I was thinking to use galvanized bolts to install the floor down to the frame..
1st I was thinking stainless but its a no no since the galvanizing will cause a reaction to the stainless and vise versa so ... Ihave heard anyway but again Im no expert to say anything more on it...and also how many bolts have been used is what I was also wondering about...course all the frames are different in size so everyone dont use the same amount...

I will also countersink the bolts to the ply...

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Postby Ira » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:11 pm

Actually, Finn, most people do the wooden floor frame so it's LESS than the trailer frame dimensions. This way, when you put your walls up, they sit on the trailer rails themselves--not on your wood frame. Also figure in your intended skin material thickness to make it PERFECTLY flush with the edge of the trailer frame.

This is a really correct way of doing it--which means I didn't do it this way. My sides and skin hang over.
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Postby Chris C » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:28 pm

Here, Classic Finn, try this: http://www.allproducts.com/search/produ ... 0407.shtml They have larger heads. Some people like them, but a carriage bolt with a square hole washer is just fine. :thumbsup:
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Postby Classic Finn » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:48 pm

Thank You Chris

I checked the website out ... now I know what they are .. gee learned somthing new again at my ol age... :lol: :lol:

I,ll check around for them ... I,m sure we have them here but under a different name.. or somthing identical to that...Good idea for sure..


Thanks again
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Postby Classic Finn » Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:50 pm

Ira wrote:Actually, Finn, most people do the wooden floor frame so it's LESS than the trailer frame dimensions. This way, when you put your walls up, they sit on the trailer rails themselves--not on your wood frame. Also figure in your intended skin material thickness to make it PERFECTLY flush with the edge of the trailer frame.

This is a really correct way of doing it--which means I didn't do it this way. My sides and skin hang over.



Thanks Ira

I,ll find out shortly how I really will end up doing it...
Lengthwise I have 86 inches on the frame but I will make it 96 inches..to give more room...


The wall will hang below the bottom frame just a tad also so I can install the edge moulding under as well... at least that is what I have in mind ... :thinking:


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Postby TRAIL-OF-TEARS » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:05 pm

my floor is just 1/2" cdx plywood and it is held down with 6 elevator bolts.
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Postby cracker39 » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:19 pm

Chris, I never did find any elevator bolts at my HD or Lowes. I did find "Connector" bolts in the cabinet hardware. They have wide flat heads with a hex drive slot in the center of the head. they also have threaded inserts with a wide head to keep them from pulling through the wood. I plan on using these to hold my fenders on if they don't have to be removable.
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Postby Chris C » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:31 pm

I wouldn't think HD or Lowes would have elevator bolts, but they'll sure have carriage bolts..........which I think would be just fine for that job.
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:23 pm

I bought my elevator bolts & SS piano hinges ($22 for a 2" X 72") at Tacoma Screw http://www.tacomascrew.com/default.htm they have several stores in the Puget Sound Region, Portland Oregon & Boise Idaho. :D Danny
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Postby Steve_Cox » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:31 pm

Mcmaster.com has elevator bolts.

I used galvanized 5/16' carriage bolts/lock washers/nuts with locktite on them. Home Depot here has the wonderful chinese carriage bolts that are an aledged grade 2. 3900 lb. Bolt Tensile Strength (Breaking Strength -lbs) I figured since it was wood that was being bolted down, bolt strength wasn't much of an issue, saved the big bucks for things other than stainless steel bolts. If they rust under that rooftar undercoat and galvanizing that just means the nuts won't accidentally come off. But if I worked in a place with big bins full of bolts, only the best would be good enough for my teardrop. :lol:

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