2. If I add an inverter, can I tie the AC output into the same AC outlets powered by the PD4045?
3. Can I connect it back into the PD4045 for the AC supply?
4. Do I need to use separate outlets for the inverter?
5. Recommendations on an inverter to use and how to connect it?
MtnDon wrote:2. If I add an inverter, can I tie the AC output into the same AC outlets powered by the PD4045?
3. Can I connect it back into the PD4045 for the AC supply?
4. Do I need to use separate outlets for the inverter?
5. Recommendations on an inverter to use and how to connect it?
If you have 2 separate AC inputs, they need to be kept separate downstream. No mixing. AC power is cyclical, 60 Hz in north america. If the phases do not match equipment looses its magic smoke and nothing works and you need to buy new equipment. That is one way that AC is very different from DC where we can add things in parallel as long as the voltage is the same.
There are transfer switches that disconnect and reconnect both the hot and neutral legs for a 120 VAC circuit. Some are manual, some are automatic. Search for "RV automatic transfer switch".
Two kinds of inverters; modified sine wave and pure sine wave. Electronics don't like modified sine wave so much. Some things like microwaves don't work at all or at best hardly work and waste most of the input DC. Sometimes you don't know how well the item will work on modified sine wave. In general if the device is strictly a resistance unit... old incandescent lamps or heaters, kettles, they work OK. But with any electronics, it varies. Some items are okay, other smoke or work poorly. In general AC motors will run hot on modicied sine wave. heat shortens their life. How long you expect a motor to work may be a deciding factor. Also, motors that run hot waste battery power.
Connect DC from battery to inverter with a proper size fuse or breaker. Either use a fail safe method of manually switching the AC after the inverter and any other AC sources like shore power, generator, etc. or use a transfer switch. Transfer switches only have a choice of two inputs, so even with an automatic switch sometimes something has to be switched manually. Plug and unplug as long as it can not be screwed up.
Treeview wrote:Hi
This thread/build seems to fit the plan I have for my camper
There's one addition that I'm curious to know about
My camper has a generator with two output circuits, one 20A the other 30A
How would I integrate the generator into your schematic?
Thanks
Tom
Socal Tom wrote:Plug the trailer into the 20A circuit as "shore power"
Treeview wrote:Socal Tom wrote:Plug the trailer into the 20A circuit as "shore power"
I had to read your reply ten times to understand what you mean. Kinda cryptic.
I don't want to have a plug for the genset output. I want it hard wired just like shore power and solar comes into the controllers. I realize there needs to be switching protection, either a manual switch or automatic, so that shore power and generator don't hit each other if they
are on at the same time
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