Here Goes with My Cargo Trailer Conversion, In this Sub-Foru

[CaleyAnn]

I think it is 65dB. I guess that is fairly quiet when compared to a big rig trailer's reefer.

As for the solar system, it is only 120 watts. It basically will get one of the batteries I have recharged in a day, IF there is good Sun conditions. My batteries are 26aH and 33Ah, which isn't a whole lot, but based on what my night time projected usage will be, should work.

[John61CT]

I'm sorry I was confused, thought you meant you were running aircon off solar not just the genny.

[CaleyAnn]

John, Not a problem.

Well, as predicted, trying to install my dead bolt, was a disaster waiting to happen. While trying to remove more framework to accommodate the deadbolt, I ended up punching through the trailer skin, nearly destroying that area. I am just not strong enough to handle a reciprocating saw. The only fix I can do now is to either just remove the entire sheet of metal on the door, or somehow seal the area with something. As it is, I had to remove everything I did yesterday to get to all the framework I needed to remove. I now know that a sheet of foam with a couple of thin sheets of ply will not be strong enough to replace the door ribs I removed. So I will install 1x8 or 1x10 lumber to stiffen up the edge of the door that swings shut. That will allow me to install the dead blot without having to drill through the metal I had to remove. At least I am more familiar with wood doors than these metal doors, and can work with the wood.

I decided that since I was working in a disaster area this morning, I would just quit, and try again tomorrow. Maybe I will have better luck.

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

Sorry to hear of your rotten luck with the recip. saw. Good to hear that you have a "Plan B"
A day off to lick wounds and re-group is a good thing. Learning is fun, sometimes not as
costly as others, better a sheet-metal repair then a whole new door.
Keep on pluggin' away we're rootin' for ya.

hank

[CaleyAnn]

Hank, My rotten luck is probably not having the education that "Guys" have in things like mechanics, electrical and things like that. I just got another shock, one that could have been avoided if I had known what to look for before I started taking things apart. The door framework is 1/2 inch offset from the trailer framework in the back. This means that adding a deadbolt or an RV door latch is impossible. It means that I now have to fix as many problems I created as I can to ensure the trailer door is weather tight. The main thing is getting a sealing grommet or whatever rubber seal around the door is called. I cut about six inches of it away when I was removing trailer framework. I also have to figure out how to add a piece of metal to gap the section I cut out. Maybe someone locally can do this for me.

Anyway, thank goodness I did not remove all of the bar latch hardware, just the bar catch. Only problem is that when I added the interior ply and insulation I thickened the door by about 1/8 inch, meaning the bolts that hold the latch on were too short. Thank goodness I could obtain bolts a little longer at the local hardware store, instead of having to drive 40 miles to get them.

My only alternative to a deadbolt is to drill a hole in the framework of the trailer body, and one in the door framework, and add big eyelet bolts. That should allow me to lock the door from the inside. I can also lock the trailer latch halves together to ensure no one can lock me inside by putting the latch across the teardrop door.

Wish me luck on the cutting out of the trailer door section that will eventually hold the teardrop door. I got an extra long jigsaw blade to do that cutting. Figure that if I take my time, maybe things will cooperate for once. Yeah, sure it will, and pigs can fly.

[Padilen]

When my friend and I installed my window. He is a builder handles saws daily. It jumped on him and poked a hole in door skin. Good news for me was I miss marked the opening. So hole was cut out when opening was cut correctly. Happens to use all is my point. Can you use some diamond plate or brushed alluminum to cover the area ?

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
Edit, we ended up using a utility knife. Scoring the cut line then using force.

[CaleyAnn]

Pad, It is possible. But first I need to install the teardrop door before I start doing all the repair work. That way if I screw up, I can remove the entire rear door, and just build one out of wood. Building with wood is something I can do somewhat fairly well. I've built a couple of outdoor doors from scratch, because they were very odd sizes. This weekend I try the teardrop door. One thing at a time. The video I watched made it look easy, though what is easy for you Guys is not always easy for me.

[pchast]

Caley Ann,

I find I only have problems using a saw when I use too aggressive a toothed blade.
Look for blades with more teeth per inch and whenever possible set up a guide to
brace the saw base against. Its is worth the extra steps to do this.

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

About the door seal, if you still have the section you cut out you can 'glue' it back with some
silicon adhesive.

I have been thinking about using a sliding barrel bolt for my rear doors (I have 2 barn doors on
mine), one of the ones near the top.
https://www.grainger.com/category/door- ... log/N-17op

Saw blades are generally made for wood or metal, the softer the material the less teeth it requires.
If going to cut both at the same time gor the metal blade. Length does matter! To long and the tip
starts whipping around the vibrations will cause the part in the cut will try to jerk the saw around
and want to go for side trips and excursions also make things look not so nice.

Hope you get to read this before you run to town again.

hank

[CaleyAnn]

Hank, Yeah, I don't know a whole lot about some tools. The reciprocating saw had me nearly getting moved by the vibrations. My big problem is that I have really bad arthritis in both hands, making it difficult to grip things.

I came up with the same solution, a sliding bolt. All I have to do it add the required thickness of wood to the inside of my trailer door, then just add the slide bolt. It will catch the metal framework when deployed. I'm going to install that before I go ahead with the slice and dice on the trailer door for the teardrop door. One part at a time.

14:21 EDITED: WOO-HOO!! After nearly a week of fiddling with the rear trailer door, and goofing things badly, I finally triumphed. Of course I went through another few goofs before I figured things out. I was thinking I had to keep adding shims under the slide bolt, and finally discovered I was needing to take away some of that shimming. I had forgotten to take into account the offset from the door of the slide bolt. I ended up only needing 1/8 ply underneath, instead of the 5/8ths I thought I needed. Yeah, really simple to figure out, but for some reason I don't see things like everyone. Probably that lack of experience I mentioned earlier.

I also was able to bolt back that piece of metal I had taken out. So all I have to do is use silicone sealant like suggested. I will also have to use duct tape to gap the cuts in the metal until I can find something that is good for filling gaps in metal.

The latch on the inside works very well. I also put a simple handle there so I had something to pull on when closing the door from the inside

[CaleyAnn]

I'd better ask just in case I didn't get everything mentioned in the video I watched about installing a teardrop door. When I trace out the cutting pattern on the door, can I use the trim that is used on the inside for that purpose. I remember the person saying I need to ensure the hole is large enough to accommodate the trim ring once the door is put in place. I am guessing that if I trace on the inside of the trim ring, then I just need to cut about 1/8 inch outside that line with my jigsaw.

I have that super sticky butyl tape. I am guessing this will be good for putting around the door on the inside of the flange. Do I need to silicone around the door once it is in place to ensure a super seal?

I am also guessing that the drip trim that goes above the door on the outside needs that Butyl tape. Again, need silicone over the edge of that?

From what I got in a previous post, I should use a jigsaw blade that is for both metal and wood, the has many little teeth, so that there is no chattering. Hopefully I can get a nice smooth cut.

[John61CT]

Not silicone, ever, ruins surfaces forever

3M 4200 would be a good sealant there, less "permanent" than 5200

[John61CT]

Sikaflex makes fine caulks too, their 512 is specifically for RVs.

And BoatLIFE Life-Calk is supposed to be excellent.

Just check it's not a super-strong adhesive, more on the sealant side, designed to stay flexible.

[hankaye]

CaleyAnn, Howdy;

You asked,
" I have that super sticky butyl tape. I am guessing this will be good for putting around the
door on the inside of the flange. Do I need to silicone around the door once it is in place to
ensure a super seal? "

No, the seal that is there will work fine. You just need to re-install the chunk you took out
for the door do-thingy fiasco. Super glue and the rest of the Cyanoacrylate stuff will get
brittle and over time bust. Most silicone adhesives will work fine and remain flexible. As
the part you intend to install with the Silicone will be permanent, then you don't need to
worry about it's resistance to being removed at a later date, it will work in your favor in
that respect.

re. the butyl tape, when it's installed you don't need to cover it with anything it works well
on it's own.

hank

[CaleyAnn]

I just got confirmation on the cutout size for my teardrop door. It is 26.25 x 36.25 inches with the 4.5 inch curved corners for model WD31. I slice and dice today, and hopefully will get the door installed in the door today.

Hank, Thanks for letting me know I don't have to spend another $20 for sealant.

As for the cuts in the metal frame, I have a solution, since apparently an epoxy is recommended from what I have read on product labels. I have a two part epoxy that is used for building model rockets. This stuff cures to a very hard and strong surface. It is super thick, so I do not have to worry about it running like normal epoxies. Heck, it is nearly impossible to get the stuff to mix, but when it is mixed, it is wonderful.

And as for the door seal gasket, yes, a little silicone, and additional weather stripping should do fine.