Thanks for all the replies!
John61CT wrote:Into steel? Brazing the holes maybe easier than cutting in a new piece.
Then again, there are amazing adhesives these days, try 3M VHB tape?
The doors and walls are wood.
3m tape to hold the hinges on you mean?
working on it wrote:dancam wrote:So i made a mistake and hung my one door too low. I cant exactly put the screws for the hinges in 1/8th higher. So what would be your suggestions for a different sealing method? Or somehow moving the door?
I might have a solution for you, not a conventional one for teardrops, but it has worked for my application:
from another thread
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=68383 working on it wrote:QueticoBill wrote:Do you think the door bottom can be too low? This is of course can be constrained by the door height, but if that is not set, what are the negatives of it being lower, particularly home built doors?
I neglected to point out that my solid 3/4" plywood doors are tightly sealed by the automotive seals ('67-'72 Chevy truck doorseals, cut and trimmed to fit) on top & sides, and the door bottom is forced over the aluminum threshold, without a rubber seal, so tightly (so tightly that I use a kickplate to cover the spot on the door, where I use my knee to forcibly seal it), there is no possible water intrusion point...I made sure to seal the end-grain on the door, and re-seal it with more polyurethane each year. The door sweep is just a safeguard against wind-driven rain, and deters surface-tension from directing water to the threshold area.
kickplate, for knee-ing the door shut.jpg
with my bad knees, I probably shouldn't knee my doors shut
Thats an interesting idea! Ill have to give it some more thought. 2 things make it more challenging on my trailer than yours. One is mine is at the back so i have to worry about dust and road spray water from the tires. Second is that this is the outer half of my pop up trailer. It lifts up to sleep in, to travel it goes down and seals ob weatherstripping when i latch it down. So there is some movement over bumps and the bottom of my wall is obiously not solidly attached. Even now with just a really snug seal the bottom of the wall wants to kick out when i close the door, i have to hold the wall as i close the door...
Is this the aluminum at the bottom of your door?
featherliteCT1 wrote:Could you remove the hinge, drill new holes in the hinge for the door side of the hinge, raise the door, and screw the hinge back onto the door so the the new holes are far enough away from the old holes to get a good bite?
I briefly considered that before asking here and decided no, because when bouncing down the road the door would probably come back down. However, i should find out what these hinges are made of. Perhaps i could slot the holes down and weld up the old part of the holes so it cand move.
Thanks!
pchast wrote:How did you build the doors? You can move the hinges depending
on how large the support is for them. You can always fill the screw
holes and drill new ones if needed too...
Doors are plywood layers frame with foam in the middle. So the hinge screws are going into the end of 5 laminated sheets of plywood. Not the strongest for screws, but an easy way to build a door... to move the screw holes they would only be moving 3/4 of a screw hole width and i wouldnt trust it.
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