tony.latham wrote:I'm curious as to how the T-seal is attached.
I chose to put an interior doorstop in with a bulb seal. Here's the mock-up:
The real-deal is looking better with the stop and seal on the wall.
'Nuff said. Just following your thread.
Tony
Aguyfromohio wrote:tony.latham wrote:...I chose to put an interior doorstop in with a bulb seal....Tony
We did a similar thing. Instead of adding the inside stop later, we cut the step profile it into the door frame, embedded in the wall panel.
This is EXACTLY how I want to do it!!! Can you please tell me what kind of hinges you used here? I ordered the T molding and the seal and the rest of the trim for the doors yesterday. All I need is the hinges now and a prayer that I figure out how to put it all together lol.aggie79 wrote:I built my doors similar to how you propose to build yours. Initially, per the sketch below, I was planning on using an outer seal on the t-molding and an inner seal on the door jamb.
However, the seal on the t-molding worked so well that I never got around to installing the inner seal (or the rain gutter above the door.)
The seal I used on the t-molding was a "D" type seal. As the previous posters stated, you need to leave room for the seal. Generally, the seal should only compress about 1/3 of the seal height. To allow for the seal thickness, I used 1/8" thick nylon spacers to offset the plane of the door from the plane of the sidewall. This 1/8" "gap" allowed for the D seal to compress appropriately.
Lastly, if you plan to use t-molding on the hinge side of the door, you need to make sure that the pivot point of your hinge is outside or beyond the outer edge of the t-molding. Otherwise, the t-molding will bind on the door when you try to open it.
Thank you very much for the information!!! I really appreciate it!!aggie79 wrote:I bought my hinges at McMaster Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/strap-hinges.
The particular hinge I used is their part number 1264A12. It is a stainless steel freezer door strap hinge. Now, they are about $40 each. At the time - 10-11 years ago - they were about $15 each.
I used three hinges per door because I thought that three looked better than two. Two hinges per door, however, is all you need for a door.
You may want to look around for the same type of hinge, but in chrome-plated zinc. I believe I've seen them in the $10-$15 price range.
aggie79 wrote:Lastly, if you plan to use t-molding on the hinge side of the door, you need to make sure that the pivot point of your hinge is outside or beyond the outer edge of the t-molding. Otherwise, the t-molding will bind on the door when you try to open it.
Oh those look great and a price point I can get behind! Thanks so much for sharing. Did you use 2 or 3 per door? Also I didn't see any information about weight. I haven't weighed our doors yet but they are relatively heavy I think.Aguyfromohio wrote:We used very similar hinges, often called refrigerator hinges.
We got our at etrailer, $20 each
https://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trail ... 104SS.html
Aguyfromohio wrote:We used very similar hinges, often called refrigerator hinges.
We got our at etrailer, $20 each
https://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trail ... 104SS.html
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