mikeschn wrote:Glue and screw the (5) 55 ½” subfloor studs to the plywood as shown in the drawing below. (drawing forthcoming)
Glue and screw the last 8’ long piece of 1x2. Let the glue dry overnight.
TomS wrote:Why cut the insulation on a table saw? Wouldn't that make an awful mess. With the static electricity generated, I picture thousands of tiny particles sticking to everything in sight. I don't know if there are any adverse health effects from inhaling foam particles. But, I don't want to give the Medical folks and opportunity to find out. This stuff cuts very easily with a simple box cutter and a straight edge.
backwoodsman wrote:mikeschn wrote:Glue and screw the (5) 55 ½” subfloor studs to the plywood as shown in the drawing below. (drawing forthcoming)
Glue and screw the last 8’ long piece of 1x2. Let the glue dry overnight.
Mike-
Please submit the drawings, I'm unclear on what you mean by this.
Thanks,
Greg
backwoodsman wrote:
Mike-
Please submit the drawings, I'm unclear on what you mean by this.
Thanks,
Greg
mikeschn wrote:Step 3: Build your floor ½” fir plywood
(Revised 10-May-2005 to allow for sidewalls to cover trailer frame)
The floor is built from 2 sheets of 5’x5’x1/2” Baltic birch., and xx 1x2s. Cut both sheets of Baltic birch to 48” x 58 ½. Place the two sheets together on a flat surface, so that you end up with a rectangle 96”x58 ½”. (The trailer is 58” x 96”. The floor should hang over the trailer by about ¼” on each side.
TomS wrote:Also, why use Baltic birch for the floor. You're only going to cover it up. ACX ply is cheaper and easier to find.
Mitheral wrote:Advantages of Baltic Birch:
1) Comes in 5'X5' sizes. Less waste.
2) Twice as many layers, stronger product.
3) No internal voids, stronger product.
asianflava wrote:Mine was actually 60 1/8 in. I used glued up panels for my cabinetry, I never cut the ends which insured that they would be the same length and parallel.
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