Can I use this with this to DO this?

[cracker39]

If you're running an AC, and a microwave--about how many amps is that? Start-up amps.

I've tripped a 15 amp breaker many times in my kitchen, when I forget and turn on the 1100 watt microwave (10 amps) and 1500 watt toaster oven (13.6 amps). I figure the AC will draw about 6 amps, but, I may want to use a microwave or toaster oven, and if I don't go to 30 amps input, I'd have to shut off the AC to use one or the other. So, I'll probably go with the 30 amp input, with the standard 30' 10ga cord.

[Nitetimes]

Dale I didn't say not to use 30 amp I just said it really wasn't neseccary for most trailers. With the A/C and nuke you probably won't ever trip the breaker but it is possible. Keep in mind that if you are useing a box with more than one breaker and you have them on different circuits your not going to kick one if you have them both running and with a 10ga cord you won't trip the main from the supply. But there is absolutely no reason you can't run 30amps if that's what you prefer, I didn't mean to infer that.

By the way, if you are are tripping the one in your house when they are both on I would check/replace the breaker if it's an older house, in my experience when a breaker is tripping frequently when something is starting it means the breaker is starting to get tired. The fix most people use for that is to not run both at the same time, the best fix is to reconfigure your cords so the 2 appliances are on different circuits and replace the breaker if it is old of course.

[bledsoe3]

I say go with the 30 amp. It's like building a 4' teardrop and then kicking yourself for not going 5'. It's there if you need it later.

[cracker39]

Dale
By the way, if you are are tripping the one in your house when they are both on I would check/replace the breaker if it's an older house, in my experience when a breaker is tripping frequently when something is starting it means the breaker is starting to get tired. The fix most people use for that is to not run both at the same time, the best fix is to reconfigure your cords so the 2 appliances are on different circuits and replace the breaker if it is old of course.

The breaker that gets tripped is when I have a total of 2600 watts being used...1500 for the toaster oven and 1100 for the MW. That is about 23-24 amps, and I'd think that would trip a new 15 amp breaker if my 30 year old house is wired with 14 ga, and it probably is. And, the breakers are that old too. I have had to replace one and a main breaker already. I couldn't find a new 15 amp breaker, and had to settle for a used one that cost more than most new breakers. The next time I have a problem with a breaker, I'm going to have a new panel and breakers installed. It will be cheaper in the long run than replacing aged, obsolete breakers.

Bledsoe has a good point. If I'm running a 10 ga cord, why not just use the 30 amp plug and put in a 30 amp main breaker. MJ put me onto Waytek Wire who sells AC pushbutton breakers for under $3 that I can put on a panel that I will make to hold the breakers and fuse and ground busses. I already have my GFCI outlets to install for added protection.

I think I'll drop the converter idea and just hardwire in a good 3 or 4 stage charger (one designated for deep cell batteries) to keep the battery up. The KISS principal makes good sense, usually costs less, and doesn't have to sacrifice quality. Now, if I can just find the correct color stranded wire for my 110, or an agreeable clerk at HD who won't argue about selling me the wrong color.........

[Ira]

Dale, I'll give you Mike's number at HD, but only if you promise to buy red for your neutral lines.

I was/still am so ignorant about electricity, I went overboard, I guess. Unlike every other aspect of my build where I simply know EVERYTHING, electricity stumps me.

So I have a 30 amp main breaker and three circuits:

My 15 amp line is dedicated to the outlet for the air conditioning. (I can also install an EXTERIOR outlet off this line that will sit in the tongue box, to be able to run an exterior extension chord for something.)

The two 10 amp lines get daisy-chained on each side of the TD for their respective interior lights, porch lights, cabinet outlets and galley outlets.

It may be more than I need, but better more thasn less.

[cracker39]

Ira, your setup sounds like mine. I'll also have one dedicated 110 outlet for the AC, then one 110 outlet in front and one in back for other appliances (TV, MW, etc.), plus one 12V outlet front and back. I've just simplified my electrical wiring to two separate voltage systems, using a charger, not a converter for the 12V...cheaper and easier to wire.

[Ira]

Dale, I didn't do any 12V because I know I'm going to be mainly camping on the grid, and if I'm off it, I planned on getting one of those quiet Honda generators.

With my added hurricane risk down here, herein lies more of a reason why I still don't see a great need for 12V, if the TD ever becomes a shelter:

If we lose power, any DC system would have to be charged via a generator, using gas anyway.

I'll see how it plays out once I start using the TD, so maybe I'll wind up getting a good deep-cycle battery anyway and use it through my 120 system via an inverter. Right now, I'm more concerned with not blowing myself up while installing the 120 appliances and outlets.

[Nitetimes]

if my 30 year old house is wired with 14 ga, and it probably is. And, the breakers are that old too. I have had to replace one and a main breaker already. I couldn't find a new 15 amp breaker, and had to settle for a used one that cost more than most new breakers. The next time I have a problem with a breaker, I'm going to have a new panel and breakers installed. It will be cheaper in the long run than replacing aged, obsolete breakers.

Been there done that, my house is close to 70 years old and it's had the breaker box replaced at least once in that time and it's due again, fortunately that is something I can do myself. Being 30 years old your house is most likely wired with a combination of 12 and 14, the problem is determining what they put where. I use 12ga exclusively when I wire a house now, lots less screwing around and you can run all 20amp breakers. There are too many electrical devices in a house now for the smaller circuits.
I know about finding the old breakers and their prices, I tried to find one for the shop I worked at for one of the panelboards, ended up replacing the whole panel. A dozen breakers for the old panel were about the same price as a new 40 circuit panel and breakers.

Bledsoe has a good point. If I'm running a 10 ga cord, why not just use the 30 amp plug and put in a 30 amp main breaker. MJ put me onto Waytek Wire who sells AC pushbutton breakers for under $3 that I can put on a panel that I will make to hold the breakers and fuse and ground busses. I already have my GFCI outlets to install for added protection.

Got a link to those breakers, I don't seem to have that one yet. Sounds interesting.

Now, if I can just find the correct color stranded wire for my 110, or an agreeable clerk at HD who won't argue about selling me the wrong color.........

You guys are having way too nuch fun with this!

[madjack]

Bledsoe has a good point. If I'm running a 10 ga cord, why not just use the 30 amp plug and put in a 30 amp main breaker. MJ put me onto Waytek Wire who sells AC pushbutton breakers for under $3 that I can put on a panel that I will make to hold the breakers and fuse and ground busses. I already have my GFCI outlets to install for added protection.

Got a link to those breakers, I don't seem to have that one yet. Sounds interesting.

NT....waytek does not allow hotlinking, so you will haveta goto their site, waytekwire.com and click products>>>curcuit breakers>>>panel mount, the part # is 46482 for the 15 amp breaker...
madjack

[Nitetimes]

Thanks MJ I'll check it out..

[Nitetimes]

Very good source. I like those breakers, 12v or 110v, very convienient, nice and small and a good price too!